STUDIO JOURNAL • The Makeup Guide

Make sure you have the correct brushes on hand, as they make your application more manageable and create a smooth and professional finish.

You can buy some gorgeous brush sets wholesale. But if you are building your brush kit all you need to start is the basics.

FLAT BRUSH
For color placement, over the entire lid, a stiff flat brush. This brush is perfect for the application of your base color.

SOFT DOME BRUSH
For applying color to the crease, you will want to use a soft dome brush that will give a smooth and silky application of the darker crease color.

PENCIL/EYELINER BRUSH
For your darker colors on the outer corner of the eye, have a pencil/eyeliner brush. This brush is a makeup artist favorite because they are smaller and thinner than the regular brush, and can be used on both the upper and lower lash line.

Disinfect using cream products with 99% alcohol where appropriate.

Have a small, touch-up kit with you when you go out.

CLEAN YOUR BRUSHES REGULARLY
Use baby shampoo for the most thorough clean.
Sanitize your brushes if you are sharing with different people by using a brush cleaning spray.

DO NOT REUSE SPONGES UNLESS THEY ARE A BEAUTY BLENDER
Clean your Beauty Blender after finished using baby shampoo.
Never “double-dip” into products like crèmes, mascara, or lipgloss.
Use a palette and a spatula for cream products to prevent contamination.
Use a palette for lip gloss, and apply with a lip brush.

Brows define the eye area, provide expression, and frame the eye. It can create focus and drama to the eye area.

• When drawing in brows, use short strokes to simulate real hair.
• Use a pencil or shadow color that is close to the real hair.
• A pencil will add volume to a brow.
• Shadow will add depth to a brow.
• Leave some skin visible so as not to create a drawn-on look to the brow.

• When lining the eye use short controlled strokes to maintain a clean line.
• When applying mascara, start with a small amount on the brush.
• Apply precisely, taking the time to reach the base of the lash through the tips.
• Hold the eyelid taut and look down at the mirror while applying mascara.
• Move the mascara wand side to side, and wiggle up the lash to create thicker, more complete coats.

• Use bronzer sparingly.
• Bronzer should be used to create a natural sun-kissed effect.
• Avoid using bronzer to darken the entire skin tone, as this will create a “muddy” effect.
• Use only on areas of skin/face that would be hit by sun for most realistic effect.
• Matte bronzers should be used when a natural bronzed effect is desired.
• Only use shimmers or sheens when using a bronze on the eyelids, lips, or body.

• Touch-ups need to be done strategically and only when necessary to change a look or control shine.
• Blotting tissues and anti-shine products are more effective than continuously applying powder.
• Reapplication may be a better option in some cases where touching up may add too much product to the skin.
• Keep a makeup remover wipe on hand.

Although we suggest using neutrals and mattes for the makeup looks in this guide, there is an exception to the rule when it comes to mature faces. Here are some tips for makeup and skincare that can create a softer, more youthful appearance.

• Adding color to the lips and cheeks will create a subtle, yet necessary, light and lift to the face.
• Look for rose, apricot, and watermelon lipstick colors to add a bright neutral hint of color to aging lips. Avoid nude, or beige lip colors on mature skin.
• Add a very light dusting of rose or peach blush to the apples of the cheeks.
  (Never use blush on the upper part of the cheekbones, keep the color as an understated pop of color).
• Avoid using any powder or matte bronzer around the outer corners of the eyes or upper cheekbones, as this will only accentuate fine lines.

It's all in the skin prep! No matter your skin type, moisturizing and priming the skin before your makeup application is essential for an even-looking application. This ensures that your makeup will stay smooth, and wear longer throughout the day.

BEFORE APPLYING MAKEUP:

• Make sure that the skin is clean and free of any moisturizer, tinted moisturizer, or powder.
• Keep a makeup remover wipe on hand to help clean the skin quickly and without residue.
• Prime the skin with a makeup primer.
• Use an oil-free primer, preferably for all skin types.
• Avoid using an illuminating or shimmer primer for photography.
• Apply the primer from the center of the face outward, massaging into the skin. A primer ensures the foundation glides on and “hugs the skin,” providing a clean, pore-free base for your foundation.
• Allow the primer or moisturizer to penetrate the skin thoroughly before starting your makeup application (1-2 min).
• Apply lip balm to the lips to ease flaky skin on the lips.

IF SKIN IS EXTRA DRY:

• Apply a light moisturizer that has no SPF. Any makeup products with SPF will not photograph properly.

IF SKIN IS OILY:

• Use a primer for oil control in the T-zone only, to prevent the foundation from becoming discolored.

Match your foundation to your skin tone and remember all the same rules apply to eye shapes and contour regardless of skin tone.

A great tip for darker skin tones is to keep your foundation and your eye shadow tones warm and golden, as cool tones often turn ashy. The opposite applies to lighter skin tones, keep those makeup tones cooler.

MATCH THE NECK/JAWLINE WHEN CHOOSING A FOUNDATION SHADE:

• Make the decisions about coverage, texture, and undertone before determining shade.
• When color matching the foundation, make sure to account for the color of the neck.
• Make sure the base of your foundation color choices has the correct undertones for the skin (see chart below). This prevents an ashy or washed out appearance.
• Foundation should perfect the skin, not mask it.

IF THE NECK AREA IS A FEW SHADES LIGHTER THAN THE NECK AND CHEST:

• Choose a foundation that is in between the color of the face and neck, therefore splitting the difference.
• This creates a seamless look of color and prevents splotchy patches.

UNDERSTAND SKIN UNDERTONES:

Apply the foundation with a foundation buff brush or beauty blender sponge.

IF APPLYING WITH A BEAUTY BLENDER:

• Make sure to spritz the sponge with a makeup setting spray.
• The sponge must be moist, but not too damp.
• Press the foundation into the skin.
• Never move the sponge back and forth, as this smudges the look of the application.

IF APPLYING WITH A BUFF BRUSH:

• Buff into the skin in circular motions.

AS YOU ARE APPLYING THE FOUNDATION:

• Remember to apply from the center of your face first and work outward toward the hairline. This creates a natural finish preventing the makeup from building up near the hairline and discoloring the hair.
• Blend the foundation over your ears and neck. This helps to create a seamless look for photography and mask any redness around the neck area.
• Use where needed. You do not need to apply foundation over the entire face, every time.

IF WEARING A LOW-CUT TOP OR SHOWING SHOULDERS:

• Continue the process over your chest/clavicle area as well.
• You can also dust with a light matte bronzer for an added glow.

The right concealer can be like a magic wand, providing the bright-eyed and rested look we all crave. Proper application is vital because if the concealer is applied the wrong way, you can end up with exaggerated fine lines or flaky patches of the skin.

Unfortunately, most concealers do not work for both dark circles and blemishes, so having TWO TYPES OF CONCEALERS is essential to creating a flawless look.

• Use peach to correct for purple/blue under-eye discoloration and use orange for darker skin tones.
• Use a pink to correct dark brown discoloration on light to medium skin tones.
• On areas with puffiness use a warmer shade to recede the puffy area and a lighter shade underneath the visible area of puffiness.
• For blemishes and redness, use a cool, yellow-based, matte concealer.

UNDER THE EYES:

• Use your foundation first before applying under-eye concealer. You will find that the foundation creates a base, and masks some of the initial discolorations.
• For under-eye circles use a peach or pink-based light-reflecting concealer.
• Apply your light-reflecting concealer by dotting it on the inner corner of the eyes, and in a small triangle toward the nostril (such as v), as this prevents the look of “raccoon eyes.”

BLEMISHES OR REDNESS:

• Use a cool, yellow-based, matte concealer.
• Focus especially around the nose, under the bottom lip, and any other red marks on the skin.
• Next, blend your concealer in a patting motion, pressing it into the skin with your pointer finger.
• Avoid dragging or smearing the concealer, as it can create caking and creasing.
• Apply the matte concealer around the nose, concealing any redness or veins. Blend into the skin with your fingers, pressing into the foundation and patting until thoroughly blended.

Only use a translucent, sheer finish powder, preferably one with a soft-focus finish. Avoid HD powders, as they create a white flashback on camera. Avoid powders with talc or mica as they create an ashy cast to the skin.

POWDER IS USED TO SET THE FOUNDATION:

• Avoid applying too much powder onto dry skin, as it will make it appear dry or flaky.
• Lightly powdered skin makes for easier application of other powder products (such as eyeshadow and blush) without grabbing the skin and becoming blotchy.
• Avoid HD powders for photography.
• Use a soft-focus filter translucent powder for all skin types.
• Use a mattifying pressed powder for oily skin.

APPLYING THE POWDER:

• Shake off excess powder from the brush before applying.
• Apply the powder with a large fluffy bronzer brush, and lightly swirl the powder onto the skin.
• For oily skin, use a large powder puff to apply the powder to the T-Zone, focusing on oil control.
• Be sure to set any concealer around the nose with the translucent powder, applying either with a small brush or powder puff.
• For more mature skin, use setting powder sparingly and only to delicately control the oil in the T-Zone. The powder can settle into fine lines and enhance any drying in mature skin.

Basic principles – dark colors recede, light colors highlight.

• May be used to create balance in the face and eyes.
• May be used to hide imperfections or sagging in the neck, or jowl areas.
• Never use to reshape the face or change the natural contours of a face.
• Blending is essential for a natural look.
• Natural areas of contour are: hollows of the cheeks, temples, eye crease, sides of the nose, under chin/neck.
• In body makeup areas of contour are: abs, areas of defined muscles.
• Natural areas of highlight are: apples of the cheeks, eyelids, under eyes, bridge of nose, brow bones.
• Apply lip balm to the lips to ease flaky skin on the lips.

This type of lid is similar to the monolid and often creates the issue of smudged eye makeup. Mascara often smears along the brow bone if you are not careful with your application. The main frustration with hooded eyes is due to the extra layer of skin on the lid, which creates the look of puffy lids, and a small, horizontal eye.

The main goal is to create the look of an up-lifted eye and to minimize any puffiness.

1. Start by applying a light highlighter on the inner corner of the eye. The key is to create the look of roundness.
2. Next, apply a medium matte toned eyeshadow directly to the hooded part of the eyelid.
3. Now, use a dark matte eyeshadow on the crease, creating depth and dimension.
4. Use a light matte shadow to highlight the brow bone for even more dimension.
5. Finish the look with eyeliner by drawing a line a bit further out on the outer corners of the eye. Use a soft eyeliner brush to apply a dark matte eyeshadow over the liner to smudge and soften the line.
6. To prevent any smudging, make sure to use waterproof makeup.
7. Promote the look of a lifted eye by utilizing mascara with a heavy hand on the top lashes, and avoiding mascara on the lower lash line.

The goal of close-set eyes is to open them up and make them pop! Close-set eyes need balance to give the illusion they are further apart. Concentrate light colors on the inner corner and dark colors on the outer corner of the eyelid.

1. First, highlight the brow bone and inner corners of the eyes to make them the most prominent feature.
2. Apply a medium matte shadow on the lid, in the shape of an upside-down half-moon. Start at the lash line and move up toward the crease.
3. Next, use a dark matte shadow to build the depth of the outer edge of the eyelid. Start at the end of the upper lash line and blend toward the outer edge of the crease.
4. Diffuse your colors from the lightest shadow to the deepest color, going from inside to outside. Keep all the darker colors toward to outer edge of the eye.
5. Use a highlighter in your inner corners to create a little more visual distance from your nose.
6. Complete the look with an eyeliner, and start the line at the center of the eyelid, and extend to the outer corner of the eye. Keep as close to the lash line as possible for an elongated effect.
7. Avoid eyeliner near the inner corner of the eye. Also avoid any liner under the lower lash line or in the waterline, which will close up the look of the eye.
8. Finish with mascara and, if needed, apply a small set of lashes on the outer corners of the upper lash line.

When it comes to monolids, you have little to no visible crease and no significant orbital bone. The main goal for monolids is to make your eyes appear bigger. The basic makeup steps for monolids are:

1. Start by focusing on the inner corners of the eyes, extending to the middle of the eyelid.
2. Next, use a medium neutral matte eyeshadow from the outer edge of the lash line to the top of the crease. This creates the illusion of roundness on the eyelid.
3. Your best friend will be an eyeliner, which will complete the look. Create a thin line starting at the inner upper lash line, and continue the line making it thicker toward the end of the lash line and outer corners.

This eye shape is when the eye gives the appearance of a projecting lid and when the eye socket is the most prominent feature. The eye shape looks incredible in a dark, deep smokey eye. Look for colors like charcoal, deep mahogany brown, and black to help create a sultry look.

1. The first step is to keep the lid blended with muted and darker tones all over the lid. The darker tones help to reduce the look, size, and space of the lid.
2. Keep any eyeliner thick along the upper lash line, which helps to create the look of depth.
3. Apply mascara on both the bottom and the top of the lash line and keep the eyeliner dark and smokey. Avoid any lighter colors on the lids.

In deep-set eyes the brow bone overtakes the lid and the eyes are rooted within the eye socket. The key to working with deep-set eyes is to enhance their look. Bring the depth forward with lighter eyeshadow colors. Use light eyeshadow colors on the lid and apply a warm color under the brow bone to create a multi-faceted look and prevent the look of a sunken eye.

1. While working with deep-set eyes, the goal is to avoid dark eyeshadow colors. Concentrate on lighter, brightening colors that will bring out the natural darkness of the eye socket.
2. Start by placing the lightest matte eyeshadow color in the inner corner of the eye.
3. Create a darker color on the outer edge of the eyelid, blending in the crease toward the center. The only place to have any darkness is on the edge of the lash line and outer corner.
4. Keep blending until the color graduates from the lightest at the inner corner, to a soft warm middle color, to the darkest shade at the outer corner of the eyelid.
5. Keep the crease clean and bright with the light matte eyeshadow.
6. Apply mascara, but avoid any mascara or liner on the lower lash line.

This is one of the easiest eye shapes to work with because you can line or contour the lids in a multitude of ways. Avoid using shimmery eyeshadows in the tear duct or inner corner, which can enhance the look of space between the eyes.

1. Concentrate darker shadows near the inner corner of the lid to give the illusion that the eyes are closer together.
2. Also, extend the eyebrows at the inner corners to further create the look of narrower eyes.
3. Eyeliner needs to be kept shorter and should not extend past the outer lid or eyebrow. Beware of a cat-eye. It will enhance the eye shape to look wider.

Upturned eyes are the perfect shape for a smokey eye, which means you can play around with darker shadows and smudged eyeliner. Upturned eyes have a natural lift at the outer corner of the eye, with a visible lid area, which is ideal for creating sultry and exotic eye looks. The goal here is to emphasize the upward lift and enhance the symmetry.

1. To enhance the lid surface, apply a light shade to the inner corners.
2. Apply a medium neutral brown shadow to the outer edge of the lid, starting in the middle of the crease. Blend the crease color, concentrating the darkest color on the end of the upper lash line.
3. Line the eyelids near the top and lower lash line, focusing the most color and width of the eyeliner near the outer corners.
4. Using an eyeliner brush, go over the liner with a matte deep brown to diffuse the liner and create a softer smokey eye.
5. To even out proportions, line the outer corner of the lower lash line with the matte deep brown shadow. Diffuse the color outward toward the end of the lash.
6. From the middle of the upper and lower lash line to the inner corners, blend the medium neutral brown shade as close to the lash lines as possible. This prevents the darker color on the outer corners from appearing too harsh.

Think lots of lashes, and bright matte shadows! If you have small eyes, it is essential that your eyebrows are not too thick or thin, which can enhance the look of a smaller lid. With small eyes, it is critical to forgo dark shades. Use lighter eyeshadows to open and brighten up the eyes and to create the illusion of a larger lid.

1. Apply matte light-cream eyeshadow on the entire lid. By using a light matte eyeshadow you are enhancing the natural curves of your eye shape.
2. Next, apply a neutral matte eyeshadow ABOVE the crease. Blend seamlessly the two colors near the brow bone.
3. Using a matte, medium natural shadow, blend the color on the lower lid, which mimics the look of your natural shadow. This helps to naturally sculpt the eye shape. Lightly add the shadow to the lower lash line.
4. With a wet, thin eyeliner brush, apply dark grey shadow on the lash line, pushing the color into the lashes. Elongate the eyeliner slightly past the edge of the lash line. Then connect to a lower medium shadow below the outer corner of the lower lash line.
5. Elongate the eyebrows at the outside corners, using a sharp eyebrow pencil to help create this effect.

Although some of these steps may seem repetitive, that is actually the beauty of these looks. The makeup looks below are created to give you an easy-to-follow routine that can produce a stunning array of looks.

It is in the simplicity of the steps, and continuous use of a few basic colors and products that make these looks classic, timeless, and accessible for everyone.

LIGHT CONTOUR

MEDIUM CONTOUR

DARK CONTOUR

Light Contour: Use this for a clean, no-makeup look that subtly defines the features and creates a beautifully natural finish.

Medium Contour: For mature faces or simple beauty. This is a stunning look for those who rarely wear makeup but wants to feel done-up and have a more refined, chic appearance.

Dark Contour: A softer version of the smokey eye. It is a foolproof look for glamour or to create a sensational evening look that enhances but doesn’t overpower the eye.

 

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ALMOND

BRONZED + BLENDED

CHARCOAL

Almond: This looks stunning on every eye shape and creates the illusion of an elongated, wide-eyed look. Consider this makeup look one as of your staples, as it works well with many situations.

Bronzed & Blended: This is the only look where we suggest using a shimmer eyeshadow for the eyes. For all other looks, we recommend using matte eyeshadows and products.

Charcoal: This retro look is perfect for fashion styling and is an extreme version of the Hollywood eye. This eye look is full of impact and creates a bold focus on the makeup.

BRONZED + BLENDED, BEFORE AND AFTER

 

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EXOTIC

SMOKEY

HOLLYWOOD

Exotic: This makeup look emphasizes the eye color and creates a dramatic frame for the eyes. This is a wonderful alternative to the smokey eye for darker skin tones.

Smokey: A powerful makeup look that can be used anytime you want to feel sexy. This intense eye look works well with all eye colors and provides the feeling of an instant makeover. This look is perfect for an impactful focus on the eye.

Hollywood: This can be used on any type of eye shape and instantly makes you feel like Hollywood royalty. This look creates an elegant and classic appearance that can be used with or without the signature red lip.

 

Use this for a clean, no-makeup look that subtly defines the features and creates a beautifully natural finish.

LIGHT CONTOUR STEPS:

1. Start with a light matte cream-colored eyeshadow on the inner corners of the eyes, extending to the middle of the eyelid.
2. Next, use a medium neutral matte eyeshadow from the outer edge of the lash line to the top of the crease. This creates the illusion of roundness on the eyelid.
3. Your best friend will be an eyeliner, which will complete the look. Create a thin line starting at the inner upper lash line, and continue the line making it thicker toward the end of the lash line and outer corners.

For mature faces or simple beauty. This is a stunning look for those who rarely wear makeup but want to feel done-up and have a more refined, chic appearance.

MEDIUM CONTOUR STEPS:

1. Apply a light matte cream-colored eyeshadow all over the lid, from lash line to brow.
2. Blend the light matte cream shadow completely, fading the color up to the brow, with the most intense highlight of the shade near the lashes and the inner corner of the eye.
3. Use a medium to dark neutral brown eyeshadow in the crease of the eye, blending from the outer corner of the eye toward the inner edge of the eye, following under the brow bone/crease.
4. Blend entirely so that the neutral brown blends seamlessly with the highlight.
5. In the shape of an inverted/sideways V ( such as > ), add more of the dark neutral brown eyeshadow to the outer edge of the eye. Make sure to blend this darker shadow seamlessly into the crease color. Keep the darker color close to the lash line and fade it into the crease.
6. Add a black or brown kohl eyeliner as close to the upper lash line as possible, creating a thin, elegant line that blends into the lashes. For a more natural application, dot the eyeliner into the lashes, connecting the “dots.”
7. Apply false eyelashes, making sure that the lashes are void of a dark strip.
8. Finish with a light dusting of pink blush on the apples of the cheeks. Keep this color very subtle.
9. Apply neutral lip color.

A softer version of the smokey eye. It is a foolproof look for glamour shots or to create a sensational evening makeup look that enhances and doesn’t overpower the eye.

DARK CONTOUR STEPS:

1. Apply a light matte cream-colored eyeshadow all over the lid, from lash line to brow.
2. Blend the light matte cream shadow completely, fading the color up to the brow, with the most intense highlight of the shade near the lashes and the inner corner of the eye.
3. Use a dark neutral brown eyeshadow in the crease of the eye, blending from the outer corner of the eye toward the inner edge of the eye, following under the brow bone/crease.
4. Blend entirely so that the dark brown blends seamlessly with the highlight. Avoid any harsh edges. You want the look to fade from dark to light.
5. In the shape of an inverted/sideways V ( such as > ), add more of the dark brown eyeshadow to the outer edge of the eye. Make sure to blend this darker shadow seamlessly into the crease color. Keep the darker color close to the lash line and fade into the crease, focusing on the darkest of the color from the middle of the eye to the outer corners.
6. Apply the dark eyeshadow under the lower lash line with a small eyeliner brush. Keep the shadow as close to the lower lash line as possible, blurring the shadow and preventing any harsh lines. Push the shadow “up” into the lower lash line.
7. Add a black or brown kohl eyeliner to the upper lash line, focusing most of the color near the outer edges of the eyelash. Your goal is to create a smudged, elegant line that blends into the lashes.
8. With the eyeliner brush, blend a touch of the dark brown eyeshadow into the kohl eyeliner to create a darker and more blended look.
9. Apply false eyelashes, making sure that the lashes are void of a dark strip.
10. Finish with a light dusting of pink blush on the apples of the cheeks. Keep this color very subtle. Apply neutral lip color.

This is the only look where we suggest using a shimmer eyeshadow for the eyes. For all other looks, we recommend using matte eyeshadows and products.

BRONZED + BLENDED STEPS:

1. Apply a light matte, cream-colored eyeshadow all over the lid, from lash line to brow.
2. Blend the light matte, cream shadow completely, fading the color up to the brow, with the most intense highlight of the color near the lashes.
3. Use a warm bronze eyeshadow color in the crease of the eye, blending from the outer corner of the eye toward the inner corner of the eye, following under the brow bone/crease.
4. Blend entirely so that the warm bronze blends seamlessly with the highlight.
5. In the shape of a sideways V ( such as > ), add a warm dark brown or dark bronze eyeshadow to the outer edge of the eye. Make sure to blend this darker shadow seamlessly into the crease color. Keep the darker color close to the lash line and fade into the crease toward the middle of the eye.
6. Apply the warm bronze eyeshadow under the lower lash line with a small eyeliner brush. Keep the shadow as close to the lower lash line as possible, blurring the shadow and preventing any harsh lines. Next, for added dimension, add the dark brown or dark bronze eyeshadow to the outer corner of the lower lash line with the eyeliner brush.
7. Apply false eyelashes, making sure that the lashes are void of a dark strip. Keep the look free of eyeliner and blush.
8. Apply neutral lip color.

The Hollywood eye can be used on any type of eye shape, and instantly makes you feel like Hollywood royalty. This look creates an elegant and classic appearance that can be used with or without the signature red lip.

HOLLYWOOD STEPS:

1. Apply a light matte, cream-colored eyeshadow all over the lid, from lash line to brow.
2. Blend the light matte cream shadow completely, fading the color up to the brow, with the most intense highlight of the color near the lashes.
3. Use a medium neutral brown eyeshadow color in the crease of the eye, blending from the outer corner of the eye toward the inner corner of the eye, following under the brow bone/crease.
4. Blend completely so that the neutral brown blends seamlessly with the highlight.
5. Apply the light matte cream eyeshadow under the lower lash line with a small eyeliner brush. Keep the shadow as close to the lower lash line as possible, blurring the shadow and preventing any harsh lines.
6. Next, for added dimension, add the neutral brown eyeshadow to the outer corner of the lower lash line with the eyeliner brush. Keep this light and subtle.
7. Use the light matte cream eyeshadow as a highlight under the brow bone and on the inner corner of the eyes.
8. On the upper lash line, use a black liquid eyeliner (preferably with a pointed, “pen” tip) to create a thin line.
9. Start at the inner corner of the eye, dotting the liquid eyeliner as close to the lash line as possible. Connect the small dots as you move toward the middle of the lash line on the upper lid.
10. As you move toward the outer lash line and lid, slowly start to press down on the tip, creating a thicker line.
11. Near the edge of the lash line and outer corner of the lid, create a thick “wingtip” with a fine point at the end.
12. Again, creating an outline of a small inverted V, and filling it in with the liquid eyeliner (such as > ) can help to create a detailed tip and give the illusion of a cat-eye.
13. Apply a full set of false eyelashes.
14. Keep the look free of blush
15. Apply a red lip color to complete the Hollywood look.

A powerful makeup look that can be used anytime you want to feel sexy. This intense eye look works well with all eye colors and provides the feeling of an instant makeover. This look is perfect for impactful focus on the eye.

SMOKEY EYE STEPS:

1. Apply a light, matte cream-colored eyeshadow all over the lid, from lash line to brow.
2. Blend the light matte cream shadow completely, fading the color up to the brow, with the most intense highlight of the color near the lashes.
3. Use a warm bronze eyeshadow color in the crease of the eye, blending from the outer corner of the eye toward the inner corner of the eye, following under the brow bone/crease.
4. Blend entirely so that the warm bronze blends seamlessly with the highlight.
5. In the shape of an inverted/sideways V ( such as > ), add a warm dark brown or dark bronze eyeshadow to the outer edge of the eye. Make sure to blend this darker shadow seamlessly into the crease color. Keep the darker color close to the lash line and fade into the crease toward the middle of the eye.
6. Apply the warm bronze eyeshadow under the lower lash line with a small eyeliner brush. Keep the shadow as close to the lower lash line as possible, blurring the shadow and preventing any harsh lines. Next, for added dimension, add the dark brown or dark bronze eyeshadow to the outer corner of the lower lash line with the eyeliner brush.
7. Apply false eyelashes, making sure that the lashes are void of a dark strip. Keep the look free of eyeliner. Keep the look free of blush.
8. Apply neutral lip color.

If you have ethnic skin tones, this makeup look emphasizes the eye color and creates a dramatic frame for the eyes. This is a wonderful alternative to the smokey eye when working with darker skin tones.

EXOTIC EYE STEPS:

1. Apply a light matte cream-colored eyeshadow all over the lid, from lash line to brow.
2. Blend the light matte cream shadow completely, fading the color up to the brow, with the most intense highlight of the color near the lashes.
3. Use a warm bronze eyeshadow color in the crease of the eye, blending from the outer corner of the eye toward the inner corner of the eye, following under the brow bone/crease.
4. Blend entirely so that the warm bronze blends seamlessly with the highlight.
5. In the shape of an inverted/sideways V ( such as > ), add a warm dark brown or dark bronze eyeshadow to the outer edge of the eye. Make sure to blend this darker shadow seamlessly into the crease color. Keep the darker color close to the lash line and fade into the crease toward the middle of the eye.
6. Apply the warm bronze eyeshadow under the lower lash line with a small eyeliner brush. Keep the shadow as close to the lower lash line as possible, blurring the shadow and preventing any harsh lines. Next, for added dimension, add the dark brown or dark bronze eyeshadow to the outer corner of the lower lash line with the eyeliner brush.
7. Apply false eyelashes, making sure that the lashes are void of a dark strip. Keep the look free of eyeliner. Keep the look free of blush.
8. Apply neutral lip color.

This eye look is stunning on every shape, and creates the illusion of an elongated and wide eyed look. Consider this makeup look one of your staples, as it looks great in all types of photography.

LONG ALMOND STEPS:

1. Apply a light matte beige eyeshadow all over the lid, from lash line to brow.
2. Blend the light matte beige shadow completely, fading the color up to the brow, with the most intense highlight of the color near the lashes. The key to this look is to create the illusion of an elongated “almond-shaped” eye.
3. In the shape of an inverted/sideways V ( such as > ), add a dark brown matte eyeshadow the outer edge of the eye. Make sure to blend this dark brown matte eyeshadow seamlessly into the crease color. Keep the darker color close to the lash line and fade into the crease focusing on the darkest of the color from the middle of the eye to the outer corners.
4. Next, follow the same steps above, in the inner corner of the eye. In the shape of an inverted/sideways V ( this time < ), add dark brown matte eyeshadow the inner corner of the eye. Make sure to blend this shadow seamlessly into the crease color. Keep the darker color close to the lash line and fade into the crease focusing the darkest of the color from the inner corner of the eye to the middle crease.
5. Make sure to keep the darkest color on the inner corner and the outer edge of the eye, leaving the middle of the eye and crease softer and lighter. This creates the look of elongation.
6. Apply the dark brown matte eyeshadow under the lower lash line with a small eyeliner brush. Keep the shadow as close to the lower lash line as possible, blurring the shadow and preventing any harsh lines.
7. Add a black or brown kohl eyeliner to the upper lash line, focusing the most color near the outer edges of the eyelash. Create a smudged, elegant line that blends into the lashes.
8. Add the black or brown kohl eyeliner the lower waterline and lower lash line, focusing the eyeliner as close to the lash line and waterline as possible.
9. With the eyeliner brush, blend the kohl eyeliner with a touch of the dark brown matte eyeshadow to create a darker and more blended look.
10. Apply a full set of false eyelashes. Keep the look free of blush.
11. Apply neutral lip color.

This retro look is perfect for fashion photography and is an extreme version of the Hollywood eye. Reminiscent of Studio 54, this eye look is full of impact and creates a bold focus on the makeup.

CHARCOAL STEPS:

1. Apply a light matte beige eyeshadow all over the lid, from lash line to brow.
2. Blend the light matte beige shadow completely, fading the color up to the brow, with the most intense highlight of the color near the lashes. The key to this look is the create a thicker, more intense version of the classic “cat eye.”
3. Using a black kohl eyeliner, outline a thick block of color starting from the inner corner of the eye. Follow the natural crease of the eye, under the brow bone. Create the look of an upside-down half-moon.
4. Near the outer corner of the eye create the outline a sideways V ( such as > ) with the edge of the point flipping upward toward the end of the eyebrow.
5. Connect the outline to the end of the upper lash line.
6. Using a black kohl eyeliner, draw a thick line along the upper lash line, making sure to blend the eyeliner into the lashes.
7. Fill in the outlined shape with a matte black eyeshadow.
8. Darken and blend the shape and outline with a stiff eyeshadow brush.
9. On the outer corner and “flip” use an eyeliner brush with the black matte eyeshadow to clean up any edges and create a clean line.
10. Avoid eyeliner or eyeshadow on the lower lash line or lid.
11. Apply a full set of false eyelashes. Keep the look free of blush.
12. Apply neutral lip color.

Putting on false eyelashes properly alone is next to impossible for the average person. Instructions below are for whoever is helping or doing your lashes for you.

I find eyelash glue fails at temperatures below 60 degrees and in high winds. If your photo session is outside and/or on a cooler day, I highly recommend NOT using false eyelash strips.

1. When removing your lashes from the case, use tweezers to peel the lashes away starting at the outer edge.
2. Next, with your scissors, trim the lashes starting at the inner edge. Usually, you only need to cut away 2-3 lashes to create the correct size.
3. The lashes should never go too far inward toward the tear duct, as this could irritate the eye. Make sure that the lashes stop 1-2 lashes on the outside of the upper lash line. Having the lashes too far out on the outer corner (over the skin and not your natural lash line) will pull the eye down.
4. When applying the lash glue, dab a thin layer of lash glue from the applicator along the base of the lash. Apply the glue from corner to corner of the lash. Let the glue set for a few seconds before applying.
5. Apply mascara first, which helps the false lashes set and adhere to the lashes easier.
6. When applying the lashes, remember to focus the placement on the outer corners to ensure that the lashes hold their place. Look down, and press the strip lash into the lash line, avoiding gluing the lash onto the skin.
7. Next, carefully use eyelash tweezers or a fine point q-tip to press the false lashes into the natural lash line and bond the two.
8. Last, but not least, curl the lashes and bond the false lash and natural lash together, creating a seamless bond and lift.

SUE BRYCE
Portrait Photographer & Educator

This guide was created for Photographers and Makeup Artists by Photographers and Makeup Artists.

A huge thank you to Bri Orozco, Christina Lerchen, Kenzie Olds, Gabriela Alvarez, and Gerson Lopes.

I know you make my world more beautiful, but watching how you help our clients transform their confidence is spellbinding.

KENZIE OLDS
Clothing Stylist, Hairstylist, and Makeup Artist

www.kenzieolds.com

IG: @kenzoofficial

BRI OROZCO
Hairstylist & Makeup Artist

www.briorohair.com

IG: @bri_oro

CHRISTINA LERCHEN
Writer, Makeup Artist, and Hairstylist

www.christinalerchen.com

IG: @christinalerchen

GABRIELA ALVAREZ
Hairstylist & Makeup Artist

www.gabrielagorgeous.com

IG: @gabriela.gorgeous